Tag Archive | skin care

Do you Really Need a SKINCARE ROUTINE? Part 2 by Madeleine Arena

Do you Really Need a SKINCARE ROUTINE? Part 2

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Madeleine Arena


The next three important steps in creating an effective skincare routine are to renew, to protect, and to prevent.

Your skin sheds billions of cells every day. However, sun damage, dry skin, oily skin, genetics or a variety of skin disorders can cause the skin’s natural shedding process to slow or stop. Adding an exfoliant as the third step in your regime can help renew your skin, making you look younger.

face with zipper

For maximum efficacy of steps four (protect) and five (prevent) you’ll need to add products formulated with ingredients that protect from UVA and UVB sun rays, reinforce and maintain the skin’s structure, and restore damaged cells to normal function.

Choose products that contain ingredients from these four essential groups:

1. Broad Spectrum Sunscreens

It’s critical that your daytime moisturizer contain these active ingredients, which will differentiate it from your nighttime moisturizer. The single most important step you can take to prevent pre-mature aging, not to mention preventing skin cancer, is to wear a broad spectrum sunscreen with an SPF rating of at least 30. Broad spectrum means that you’re protected from both UVB (burning rays) and UVA (aging rays). Look for these active sunscreen ingredients to ensure you’re getting sufficient UVA protection: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Avobenzone, or Tinosorb.

2. Antioxidants

Antioxidants help your skin heal, produce healthy collagen, resist the harmful effects of the environment, reduce inflammation and free radical damage. These ingredients include: various forms of vitamins A, C, and E; Co Enzyme Q-10; superoxide dismutase; glutathione; green tea and grape seed extracts, to name a few. While it’s not always true, in this case, if a little is good, a lot is definitely better, so look for a product that’s rich in these ingredients.

3. Skin-Identical Ingredients

Improve skin texture, retain water, protect from the environment, fight infection, and help repair and maintain the skin’s outer and inner barrier structure. Choose a product that contains some of these ingredients: ceramides, lecithin, glycerin, fatty acids, polysaccharides, hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, proteins, amino acids, cholesterol, and glycosaminoglycan.

4. Cell-Communicating Ingredients

Help prevent wrinkles by reducing cellular damage. Cell-communicating ingredients can tell a skin cell to look, act, and behave more like a normal, healthy intact skin cell would. This is a developing area of skin care. Look for products that contain these ingredients: niacinamide, retinol, synthetic peptides, lecithin, and adenosine triphosphate.

 Next month I’ll cover specialized treatments, as well as the specifics of a daily routine.

Madeleine@tscsource.com

http://www.tscsource.com



Madeleine is the author of the skin care chapter published in

Tick Tock, Stop the Clock ~ Getting Pretty on our Lunch Hour

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BUY HERE.



Do you Really Need a SKINCARE ROUTINE? Part 1 by Madeleine Arena

Do you Really Need a SKINCARE ROUTINE? Part 1

Madeleine - 111809

Madeleine Arena

Absolutely, yes!!! If you want great looking skin, (and who doesn’t?), you need to learn how to take care of it. The essential first step is to find out all about your skin type because different skin types need different formulations to address their individual needs. Once you know that, you’ll learn how to take care of your skin.

cosmetics women

You’ve probably noticed how your skin changes with the weather and the climate; not to mention the effects of stress. The basic categories of oily, dry, and combination skin don’t deal with the various other issues that impact skin type. Skin concerns such as rosacea, acne, and sun damage don’t fit these categories. Just to make your quest more challenging is the realization that you can have more than one skin type: sensitive and oily, sun damaged with acne, oily and blemish-prone. Knowing all you can about what affects your skin type will enable you to choose the right products.

Combining products into an effective skincare regimen can be a daunting task. Choices abound and range from simple to complex. Since both have advantages and disadvantages, it’s essential that you learn about all the product and treatment options before choosing the elements of the skin care routine that’s best for you. Fancy, expensive products are not in and or themselves the answer.

The goal – find the skincare routine that works for you.

Cleansing, preparing and replenishing the skin are the critical first two steps in an effective skincare routine. The following chart details what the cleanser and toner do, why you need them, and the benefits you can expect from using them.

Look for the March issue and the next three important steps – renew, protect, and prevent – in an effective skincare routine.

Madeleine@tscsource.com                www.tscsource.com


Madeleine is the author of the skin care chapter published in

Tick Tock, Stop the Clock ~ Getting Pretty on our Lunch Hour

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BUY HERE.



 

PEPTIDES FOR SKIN CARE – Hero or Hype

THE SKIN CARE ARENA

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by Madeleine Arena, B.S., M.B.A.*

If you’ve read a fashion or beauty magazine, lately you’re probably aware of the astonishing claims quite a few companies have made about their products containing peptides. The claims range from lifting sagging skin, and plumping lips, to reducing dark circles and puffy eyes. Pretty terrific, right. Can peptides be the anti-aging answer we’ve been waiting for, or are they just another hype??

What are peptides?

Peptides are tiny pearls of proteins composed of long or short chains of amino acids, the building blocks of protein. Peptides may be natural or synthetic. Synthetic peptides are engineered in the lab and afford cosmetic chemists greater stability control and effectiveness in the skin care products they formulate.

The bottom line

There are compelling reasons to consider using peptides in skin care products. It’s important to keep in mind that the cosmetic industry perpetuates the idea that there is one miracle ingredient or group of ingredients that solves all anti-aging problems.  Regretfully, that’s not true. There’s no single solution for all the signs of aging. But wouldn’t it be great if there was one!

Just as the body needs a variety of healthy foods and supplements to achieve optimum health; the skin, the most complex organ of the body, needs a medley of effective ingredients to make your skin appear as young and healthy.

peeptiesCell-communicating ingredients

Peptides are tiny pearls of proteins, composed of either long or short chains of amino acids; that can also start or stop a process.  By interacting with target cells, peptides regulate many body activities.  Proteins are broken into peptides by enzymatic action so they can exert their influence on the body.  While some peptides are involved in hormonal activity, others are engaged in the immune system.  Other peptides are cell-communicating ingredients that instruct cells how to react and behave. In skin care formulations peptides function as function as “messengers”, and have cell-communicating ability. Products containing peptides must be packaged so that they are protected from degrading – no jars!

Be an educated consumer. Peptide products that claim to work like botox or dermal fillers to reduce wrinkles won’t deliver. Simply put peptides can’t topically duplicate the results of an injectable material.   The research substantiating these product claims usually comes from the company selling the peptide or peptide blend to the cosmetic company. More important, the level of the ingredient used in the company funded study is much greater than what is used in the actual skin care products, so the result cannot be achieved. Also, peptides  cannot plump lips (at least not to a noticeable extent) nor can they lift sagging skin, lighten dark circles, or eliminate puffy eyes. These claims and more appear on products with peptides, but they are not supported by published, peer-reviewed research.


* Madeleine Arena is a cosmetic chemist who develops private label skin and hair care products for the trade. Madeleine can be reached through her website – www.tscsource.com

Write to Madeleine at: Madeleine@tscsource.com

Use the form below to send questions to Madeleine.



 

Kale For Health and Beauty by Judith Dorian

KaleWearing a shirt with the word kale sprawled across it may not be your idea of high fashion, but consider eating the green veggie as part of your beauty regimen. By now, you may be familiar with its health benefits—high in vitamin K and calcium, it helps to prevent cardiovascular disease, bone fragility, as well as arterial and kidney calcification.  It lowers cholesterol, especially when cooked. It’s a great source of lutein and zeaxanthin, carotenoids that help to filter high-energy light, shielding eyes from damage and reducing the risk of cataracts.  Kale provides B vitamins, notably pantothenic acid, that supports your body in converting carbs to glucose and as a fuel for energy. The list goes on: kale is rich in fiber, antioxidants,  magnesium, iron, phosphorus, potassium, copper, manganese, sulforaphane, omega 3 fatty acids, and glucosinolates.

A study in the Journal of the American Dietetic Association in 2011 linked a higher intake of kale and other members of the Brassica family (think  mustard greens, broccoli, cauliflower, collard greens, arugula, watercress and cabbage) with a decreased risk of colon cancer.

So what does kale have to do with beauty—makes it such a star? Credited for keeping us youthful? Plenty, it seems.  Skin— our largest organ—requires high quality food, rich in vitamins and minerals for optimal function. Kale is loaded with vitamins A and collagen-producing vitamin C. Retinol, derived from vitamin A, diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Abundant in fiber, and therefore improved digestion, kale helps skin to glow. It also contains chlorophyll, a detoxifying antioxidant which reigns supreme in the anti-aging department by combating the free-radical damage that causes visible (and hidden) signs of aging such as wrinkles, fine lines, dullness, and discoloration. Antioxidants increase the effectiveness of sunscreens in preventing sun damage; they promote cellular repair and healing.

Aside from its benefits for the skin, consuming kale is valued for beautifying hair. Do you have a show stopping mane of hair?  Or is it thinning? Bald patches? Hair reflects the state of your overall health.  Strong hair relies on the capability of your body to create a proper hair shaft as well as on healthy skin and follicles. If you experience hair breakage, try drinking kale juice or smoothies to increase your hair’s elasticity and strength. Moreover, your hair will grow at a faster rate. But it may require time and patience to repair the damage.

Your age, ethnicity, and genetics all play their part. Kale is not the only food that can restore the luxuriant head of hair that you may recall having as a child. But kale is in the forefront, providing the above mentioned folate, iron, and vitamin C (to assure that there’s enough iron in red blood cells to carry oxygen to hair follicles. Vitamin C also forms collagen, a structural fiber that helps our body to hold everything together. Hair follicles, blood vessels, and skin all require collagen to stay healthy for optimal growth. On the head, even minor vitamin C deficiencies can lead to dry, brittle hair that breaks easily.

Dr. Jessica Wu, a dermatologist and creator of Dr. Jessica Wu Skincare, wrote in Feed Your Face, her guide to eating for beauty:

“I tell my patients that what they put in their mouths is as important as the products they apply on their skin. Foods get digested and broken down into vitamins, minerals and amino acids that your body can use to build healthy skin. If you crash diet or eat highly processed foods, your skin won’t be as strong and supple as it could be.”

Cautionary: if you have a thyroid problem, it’s advisable not to overdue consumption of kale which is a goitrogen and cook it briefly rather than eating it raw. Too much kale can prevent proper absorption of calcium and iodine. So moderation is advisable. And if you’re doing a juice cleanse, be sure to supplement with calcium and iodine-rich foods simultaneously.

If you haven’t yet tried eating kale—most commonly seen are the curly or lacing (Dinosaur) in the supermarket, although there are several other varieties—it can be steamed, sauteed, roasted, eaten raw or turned into a smoothie which can be made from any combination of fruits and vegetables.

VITAMIN C – The Big Gun in Any Anti-Aging Arsenal

THE SKIN CARE ARENA

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by Madeleine Arena, B.S., M.B.A.*

The bad news is that free-radical damage from the environment is inescapable. This daily assault on our skin can cause premature aging. The good news is research has shown that topical vitamin C can help fortify the skin against this onslaught. How? By providing powerful antioxidant protection, Vitamin C shields the skin from free radical damage.

(Dermatological Surgery, 2008 & Dermatology Research and Practice, 2012)

Adding a well-formulated vitamin C product to your daily skincare regime, can afford you a variety of benefits that can help keep your skin looking younger, longer.

Vitamin C, whether blended with other beneficial ingredients or in a concentrated treatment, can treat multiple skincare concerns.

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Vitamin C can:

  • Reduce the appearance of brown spots.
  • Firm the skin by stimulating collagen production.
  • Reduce inflammation and irritation, both of which can trigger additional skin damage.
  • Improve the skin’s natural healing response, which helps fade post-breakout red marks.
  • Increase the effectiveness of your sunscreen and boost your skins defense against UV exposure.

(Dermatological Surgery 2008, & Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2012 & The Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology, 2010)

The most commonly used form of vitamin C in skin care products is Ascorbic acid—also known as L-ascorbic acid. It has the most research of any form of vitamin C when it comes to benefits for skin. It is equally powerful when mixed with other antioxidants, or when used alone in higher concentrations. Ascorbic acid concentrations of 15%, 20% or greater can be used for treating extra-stubborn problems. (Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2008 & Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, 2012).

It’s important for you to know that there isn’t just one “best” form of vitamin C. There are, however a few derivitives that research has demonstrated are the most stable and effective. Other effective forms include sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl palmitate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. While there is less supporting research on these derivatives than ascorbic acid the research that does exist is positive.

The range of benefits for these forms of vitamin C includes repair and protection from free- radical damage, skin firming, and the improvement of skin tone. When added to a blend of other proven antioxidants and cell-communicating ingredients these vitamin C derivatives enhance the formulation. Look for products that include these with ingredients such as green tea, grape seed extract, Resveratrol, peptides, and niacinamide.

All antioxidants, including vitamin C, are susceptible to destabilizing when exposed to air and light (Skin Research and Technology, 2008). To maximize the benefits of your vitamin and anti-oxidant treatments, as well as protecting your investment in those products, choose only those products packaged so that their ingredients maintain their stability. Look for opaque bottles or tubes, air-restrictive bottles, and pumps.

There’s no doubt; vitamin C is a powerful tool in your anti-aging arsenal. However, research is clear that using a range of beneficial ingredients is always best for keeping skin at its healthiest. Make vitamin C a part of a regimen that includes a daily broad-spectrum sunscreen SFP 30, an exfoliant, and a non-irritating products that contain a blend of antioxidants, skin-repairing agents, and cell-communicating ingredients.

* Madeleine Arena is a cosmetic chemist who develops private label skin and hair care products for the trade. Madeleine can be reached through her website – www.tscsource.com



 

Madeleine@tscsource.com

ANTI-AGING SKIN CARE MEANS MORE THAN A PRETTY FACE by Madeleine Arena

THE SKIN CARE ARENA

Madeleine - 111809

by Madeleine Arena, B.S., M.B.A.*

It’s a fact of life that wrinkles, crepiness, and discolored skin appear sooner on areas that haven’t been routinely protected from the sun with a broad-spectrum sunscreen. This is especially true for the neglected neck, chest and décolleté since most of us take special care of the face. As a result, over the years the contrast between the skin on the face, and the skin on neck, chest and décolleté becomes striking; and is the most obvious sign of aging skin that can give away your age in the same way your hands can. That’s why I believe skin care needs to start at our chests.

There are various reasons why the neck and décolleté shows the signs of aging sooner than the face.

First, is sun damage. The chest and neck skin often burns before the face.

In addition, the skin on the neck is naturally thinner than the skin on the face, therefore, the damage from UV rays is more extensive and severe.

Last but not least, the muscles in the neck area are relatively weak. Weak muscles combined with chronic sun exposure cause multiple horizontal lines, sagging and drooping of the neck skin as a person ages.

Given this, it’s no wonder cosmetics counters are packed with an array of creams and treatments targeting these areas. Buying a separate neck, chest, or décolleté cream is a waste of your money. These “specialized” products are rarely well-formulated, and they almost always are overpriced. In addition, they are unnecessary because the anti-aging product you use for your face will work beautifully, if it’s well-formulated.

Scientific research has proven that the same effective ingredients will keep the skin anywhere on your body acting and looking young. Gentle cleansing, anti-aging products loaded with antioxidants (such as Vitamin C & E, as well as co-enzyme Q10) skin-repairing ingredients (such as Ceramides, & Hyaluronic Acid), and cell-communicating ingredients (such as Peptides, Retinol, & Linolenic Acid) along with the diligent use of a well-formulated sunscreen will work for your face, as well as your neck, chest, and décolleté. Simply continue their application downward.

Whether you’re treating your face or your neck, chest and décolleté a consistent routine is essential if you want to see results.

Remember the best single step you can take to keep any area of your skin, especially these delicate areas, looking gorgeous for years to come is to always protect them with a generous application of a broad-spectrum sunscreen.

If you do have sun damage in these areas it is treatable. Consult your dermatologist. There are different treatment options available, such as skin lightening products that contain hydroquinone. Creams will only go so far if the sun damage is bad. If creams cannot help you laser treatments may.

Skin is skin, and what works for your face absolutely will work for your neck, chest, and décolleté. There’s no need to buy extra products for signs of aging below the face. As long as you don’t have any specific concerns (like acne, eczema, or rosacea), your facial anti-aging product will keep your neck, chest and décolleté looking healthy and young.

* Madeleine Arena is a cosmetic chemist who develops private label skin and hair care products for the trade. Madeleine can be reached through her website – www.tscsource.com


Madeleine is the author of the Skin Care chapter in the book

Tick Tock, Stop the Clock ~ Getting Pretty on Your Lunch Hour

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Does Dry Skin Cause Wrinkles? by Madeleine Arena

THE SKIN CARE ARENA

by Madeleine Arena, B.S., M.B.A.*

Madeleine - 111809Does Dry Skin Cause Wrinkles?

No. Dry skin does not cause wrinkles. Research has shown that wrinkles and dry skin are not related in terms of cause and effect.

Sun damage is the primary cause of wrinkles. In addition, muscle movement, estrogen loss, and fat depletion also cause wrinkles. Nowhere (outside of ads and product claims) is dry skin ever mentioned as a cause of wrinkles. You may ask, “what about those annoying little “fine, dry lines” most moisturizers claim to eliminate? Realistically, that’s just another way to describe how your skin can look when it’s dry. However, “fine, dry lines” are not the same as wrinkles. Wrinkles don’t go away simply by applying a moisturizer.

If you’re over 35 it’s easy to prove that sun damage is by far the leading cause of wrinkled skin. Simply compare the parts of your body that rarely, if ever, see the sun with the parts of your body exposed to the sun on a daily basis. Look at your backside, inner arms, and abdomen. You may be surprised to see that these areas have minimal to no signs of “aging.” In fact, they are firmer, have more elasticity, and the color of “younger” skin than the sun-exposed areas. Proving just how strongly sun exposure and wrinkles are related.

So why are so many people convinced that dry skin and wrinkles are related? There are two reasons. First is the misinformation distributed by the cosmetics industry; and second is the fact that dry skin looks more wrinkled than skin that isn’t dry. So, it’s not surprising, that wrinkled skin looks better after a moisturizer has been applied.
When skin is dry or dehydrated, any amount of wrinkling or flaws look more exaggerated. Applying a moisturizer will diminish the appearance of wrinkles and can help skin look and act younger, but that is not the same thing as helping skin to repair itself.

Standard, ordinary moisturizers do not have any significant effect on wrinkles. However, using a product that contains state of-the art ingredients will have such an effect. Not all products are created equal. The state-of-the-art ingredients you should look for are Antioxidants, cell-communicating ingredients, and skin-repairing ingredients. Here’s how each one of these critical ingredient categories works:

Antioxidants decrease free-radical damage. They also reduce inflammation, which causes collagen to break down and negatively impacts the skin cell’s DNA structure. When contained in an effective sunscreen, antioxidants also help your skin defend itself against the #1 cause of aging, the sun.
Cell-communicating ingredients not only work to “tell” damaged cells to start acting more like normal, younger, healthier cells; but also help skin cells form in a healthy, “younger” way.
Skin-repairing ingredients are substances that skin has lost due to sun exposure and external irritants. These repairing ingredients help to fight environmental damage that leads to moisture loss and dull skin causing it to look older than it really is.

Last but definitely not least, it is critically importance to use an effective sunscreen rated SPF 30 or higher 365 days a year. While the topic of sunscreen may not be as interesting as the latest anti-wrinkle miracle, sunscreen is the single most important product to help you prevent premature aging, and resist wrinkles.

To learn what ingredients to look for, read Madeleine’s article,

Navigating the Sea of Skin Care Productshttps://fabulousbeautyblog.wordpress.com

* Madeleine Arena is a cosmetic chemist who develops private label

skin and hair care products for the trade.

www.tscsource.com

Her chapter on skin care has been a popular feature in

Tick Tock, Stop the Clock ~ Getting Pretty on Your Lunch Hour

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